Vung Ro Bay

Calm, clear waters, rocky escarpments, coves, hidden beaches and forested hills are what characterize Vung Ro Bay, 100km north of Nha Trang. Ever since I first glimpsed this gorgeous natural harbour – from the seat of my bicycle, high above the bay, on the precarious, meandering switchbacks of the Ca Pass – I’ve always thought of it as one of the loveliest stretches of coast in Vietnam. Over the years, I’ve visited many times; exploring the floating fishing village, climbing the steps to the historic French-built lighthouse, driving the deserted coast road, and swimming at Bai Mon, one of my Top 5 Beaches in Vietnam. Despite its natural beauty and ease of access, travellers rarely make it here, and there’s no tourist development whatsoever. But, that’s about to change, in dramatic fashion, with the announcement of two multi-billion dollar projects for the area. If you want to see Vung Ro Bay, 2014 is probably the last chance you’ll get. Vietnam tours private

Vũng Rô Bay seen from the Cả PassVung Ro Bay is formed by a tongue of land that spreads southwest and shelters the main shoreline from the winds and weather coming off the East (South China) Sea. The large main bay is dotted with hundreds of floating homes, fish farms and wooden fishing boats. A dramatic backdrop is created by rugged, forested mountains that culminate in a free-standing slab of stone on the highest peak, known as Núi Đá Bia, which means ‘Tombstone Mount’. North of the main bay there’s a perfect V-shaped inlet, filled with golden sand, called Bai Mon Beach, which is great for swimming. From the beach there’s a long, steep staircase up to a lighthouse, originally built by the colonial French in 1890. Climb to the top of this lighthouse on rickety spiral stairs for superb panoramic views of the entire bay. Halong Alova Gold Cruise

Although there’s no accommodation at Vung Ro Bay for now, it’s only a short drive (by taxi, motorbike taxi or rented motorbike) from Đại Lãnh Beach to the south, or Tuy Hòa City to the north. The latter has regular train, plane and bus connections to all major Vietnamese cities, and the former can be easily reached by bus or rented motorbike from Nha Trang (read this for more about Đại Lãnh Beach and how to get there from Nha Trang). Indeed, part of the fun of visiting Vung Ro Bay is the drive there: approaching from the north or south on Highway 1, via the spectacular Ca Pass. One of the most dramatic, scenic stretches of Vietnam’s major national highway, the Ca Pass cuts along a mountainside, offering tremendous views down over Vung Ro Bay. If coming from Tuy Hòa, the road to the bay is clearly signposted to the left at the top of the Ca Pass, but if coming from Đại Lãnh it’s not: just look out for a right turning once you reach the summit of the pass. There’s also a scenic and quiet back road to Vung Ro Bay from Tuy Hòa, the last few kilometres of which run alongside the ocean with beautiful views over Bai Mon Beach. MEKONG EYES

Vung Ro Bay

Bãi Môn Beach seen from the coast road

Until recently, Vung Ro Bay was famous for a military incident rather than its natural beauty. In February 1965, a North Vietnamese vessel was found to be smuggling war supplies into Vung Ro Bay in order to aid the North’s campaign to ‘liberate’ the American-backed South Vietnam. On discovering this, the latter sent in ships, planes and a submarine to sink the North Vietnamese boat and capture the smuggled goods, which included thousands of arms and a million rounds of ammunition. The North Vietnamese lost that battle but they eventually won the war, and today there’s a large monument near the water’s edge, erected to commemorate the Vietnamese soldiers who fought and died defending the supply ship and the bay.

Fishing boats & fish farms in Vũng Rô BayIt seems somewhat ironic then that, 50 years after the ‘Vung Ro Bay Incident’, as it came to be known, the bay is soon to be developed by one of the most powerful family empires in America, the Rockefellers. Earlier this year it was announced that a $2.5 billion resort, marina, tourism and residential project, funded by Rose Rock Group, a Rockefeller-backed investment firm, would be built on Vung Ro Bay. Oil is where it all started for the Rockefeller Family back in the 19th century, so it’s perhaps no surprise that the gigantic development in Vung Ro Bay is closely linked to a huge $4 billion oil refinery that’s also to be constructed here, taking advantage of the bay’s natural deep water harbour. Take a look at the promotional video below to see what’s in store for this area, or find out more about the development on their website: www.visitvungrobay.com

2014: last chance to see it like this!All this means that Vung Ro Bay will be a construction site for the next few years, and after the projects are completed they’ll be minimal public access to the beaches and bays in this area. Work was supposed to have started by the end of 2013, but when I last visited, in January 2014, there was no sign of it. However, if you want to see Vung Ro Bay before these massive projects take over, 2014 may well be your last chance. The cheap guesthouses on Đại Lãnh Beach make a good base for exploring Vung Ro Bay, or for more style and comfort try the CenDeluxe Hotel (www.cendeluxehotel.com) in Tuy Hòa City, which has a swimming pool and a ‘sky bar’ with panoramic views over rice fields and the foothills of the Annamite Mountains. Cheaper accommodation in Tuy Hòa can be found on Hùng Vương Street.

Coc Ly market in Sapa Vietnam

It is the colorful market in a mountainous area where the Flower H’mong mainly gathers to exchange their homemade products.
Coc Ly market in Sapa Vietnam
This Tuesday market is about 35km from Bac Ha. You can get here via a fairly good road, or by road and river; hotels in Sapa and Bac Ha can organise trips. Coc ly is a small village on the Chay river inhabited by the Flower H’mong Minority people. The Flower H’mong traditionally wear a distinctive and bright coloured costume. They are a gentle, softly spoken people who live in the steep mountainous country close to the Chinese border. Because Coc Ly is more remote than Sapa, the dress and way of life is more traditional than in the large centers. Sapa North Vietnam travel
The market deals in fruit, vegetable, pork and chickens, in addition to colourful fabrics and items of traditional dress. There is a buffalo sale in progress and many of these placid animals are tethered close to the market. Buffalo are still widely used in the growing process, especially in the mountainous regions. Horse are an important form of transport in the North West and a quite a few, sturdy ponies were tied to tree around the market. The horse carry a light timber frame on their back to carry produce to and from the market. Mekong Bassac cruise

Coc Ly market in Sapa Vietnam

There’s no dancing or singing, but Coc Ly Market in Lao Cai Province always turns colorful and festive on Tuesdays, when ethnic people gather there to buy and sell goods, dine and drink, or just wander to enjoy the ambience of the montagnard market. Halong Dragon Pearl Junk
Many ethnic traders from Bac Ha and other parts of Lao Cai Province dress up in colorful costumes and bring horses, chickens, buffaloes, vegetables or whatever they can sell to the festive market in the wee hours, and will not return home until 1pm.
Certainly, what catches the eyes of visitors most are the different colors of the costumes worn by ethnic people and the handicrafts they sell at the market, about 50 kilometers from Lao Cai City in the northern province.
You can see young and old Hmong women, wearing skirts and hats with different types of embroidered flowers, crowding the market during the opening hours of Coc Ly. Scarves, clothes, decorations and other items made of tho cam (ethnic fabric) on sale also add color to the bazaar by the Chay River.
The colorful items are put on sale not just for locals but also tourists, particularly foreigners. However, you should remember to bargain when you want to buy your favorites, and the items at the booths located at the start of the path you walk on always have higher prices. Keep walking toward the end of the traditionally ethnic market until you find a real bargain.
A good idea is to stroll every corner of the once-a-week bazaar as you listen to unexpected conversations, see nice surprises and learn how ethnic people sell and buy farm produce, life’s necessities and other things.
After visiting the market, which is the most fresh and unspoiled market of the region, offering a wide range of different colorful ethnic minorities such as Flower C’mon, Black Dao, Tay , Fula, Lachi, Sandui and Nung….there will be an exciting boat cruise winding you through a breathtaking, out of this-world landscape where the mountain grow from water presenting their most hidden mysteries, including caves and tiny minority …A picnic lunch box can be prepared for your most convenience..

Top 5 Chè - Sweet Soups must try in Saigon

Desserts in Vietnam are generally different than most western desserts. Granted, there is the occasional baked item taken from the French and made into a Vietnamese version. However, there is one set of desserts that is inherently Vietnamese and that is Chè. South Vietnam travel

No, it’s not the rather famous beret clad revolutionary whose face is plastered on shirts all over Pham Ngu Lao. In fact, it’s a family of desserts. It may be served hot or cold in bowls, glasses, or over ice, and contain a range of ingredients ranging from a wide range of beans to tapioca, jellies, glutinous rice, and fruit. The options are nearly endless and it is almost impossible to produce a complete list. But we took a poll around the City Pass Guide offices and what we have is our top five Chè dishes.

TOP 5 CHÈ - SWEET SOUPS MUST TRY IN SAIGON
CHÈ BA MÀU

Top 5 Chè - Sweet Soups must try in Saigon

Literally translated as Dessert three colours, the main variant of this dessert is served with three types of coloured green jelly in slightly sweet coconut juice. The ingredients are usually served in layers and then mixed up when eaten and makes for a light yet refreshing snack. AMALOTUS CRUISE

CHÈ ĐẬU ĐỎ BÁNH LỌT
dau do banh lot

Kind of like the smorgasbord of the Chè family, this one has it all. It’s usually served with beans, jelly, and/or tapioca.

SÂM BỔ LƯỢNG
San bo luong

More of a restorative than a dessert , this Chè can have dried red jujube, peanuts, taro, cassava, ginseng root, seaweed and/or water chesnuts. What also makes this dessert different is that there is no coconut milk in the syrup.Huong Hai Sealife

CHÈ THÁI
che thai

A version of Thailand’s tub tim grawb, the Vietnamese version is less sweet and uses a variety of fruits that can include jackfruit, longan, lychee, palm seed, and most importantly durian.

CHÈ TRÔI NƯỚC
che troi nuoc

My favourite of the five, this dessert is made with mung bean paste in a dumpling made of glutinous rice flour that has a texture similar to mochi. It is served in a thick clear or brown liquid made of water, sugar, and grated ginger root.

If you are interested in trying some of these desserts, you can check them out at these locations:

Chè Thái

Add: 380 Nguyen Tri Phuong, D. 10, HCMC. Tel: 09 3333 8128

Xôi Chè

Add: 111 Bui Thi Xuan, Pham Ngu Lao D. 1 HCMC. Tel: 08 38332748

Add: 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Quan Binh Thanh HCMC. Tel: 08 3517 8333

Add: 160 Nguyen Oanh Quan Go Vap HCMC. Tel: 08 6675 3882

Attractions in Phu Quoc island

Phu Quoc (Phú Qu?c ), also know under the name Pearl island, is bigest island of Vietnam and is a district of Kien Giang. Phu Quoc tourism is famous for beautiful sea, beaches, primary forests and ancient fishing villages. This island is an ideal destination of Vietnam. Following is my experiences about Phu Quoc travel. Mekong & Phu Quoc island (5 days, 4 nights)

Attractions in Phu Quoc island
There are 3 main tourism areas in Phu Quoc: Northern island, Southern and Western. Usually, tourists come to Phu Quoc will spend 3 days to visit these areas.

Western

Western island is place locating Duong Dong town, seat of island, where is the first place you see when coming to Phu Quoc. BASSAC CRUISE

The first site you should visit is Dinh Cau (Dinh C?u ), that is very sacred temple with the locals.

Next is Ham Ninh fishing village. This is an ancient village with rustic and pristine cottages. You may also buy fresh seafoods and enjoy them on beach when ships of fishermens just docked.

Ham Ninh fishing village in Phu Quoc

After visiting Ham Ninh village, if it’s not yet dark, let’s visit Cuoi Nguon museum, where has been kept the stories and legends about Phu Quoc island. Dragon Pearl Junk

Evening, let’s come to bustling Dinh Cau night market and eat famous specialties, goods of this island.

Southern

The famous attractions in Southern Island is Phu Quoc prison (Nhà tù Phú Qu?c ). The prison was restored like a museum, with wondrous statues about scenes of torturing prisoners. I don’t like this place, it scares me.

Tranh stream (Su?i Tranh ) is derived from Ham Ninh mountain, has beautiful scene and cool air like Dalat city.

Painting stream in Phu Quoc

Khem beach (Bãi Khem ) is surrounded by mountains. This is a beautiful beach of Phu Quoc with bue sea, long sand and the pristine.

Next destinations in Southern are Kingdom of pepper (Vuong Qu?c h? tiêu ) with immense green. Fish sauce barrel houses, where produce millions litters of fish sauce every year. I’m sure, you will be overwhelmed by massive barrel systems. Pearl farms, where has been made famous pearls of Phu Quoc.

Northern

Northern island own Phu Quoc National park (Vu?n qu?c gia Phú Qu?c), where has the most beautiful beaches of the island, along with pristine landscape:

Ham Rong mountain (Núi Hàm R?ng ), Ganh Dau beach (Gành D?u ), Cua Can (C?a C?n, an estuary).

Ganh Dau in Phu Quoc Vietnam

Bai Dai beach (Bãi Dài), the most beautiful beach of Phu Quoc.

Da Ngon (su?i Ðá Ng?n ), Da Ban stream (su?i Ðá Bàn), streams have clear water and many small waterfalls.

Finally, Nguyen Trung Truc temple, the end of my northern journey, is where the locals remember a great hero of country.

Bai Sao beach in Phu Quoc

My advice: You should rent a motorbike to visit attractions in Phu Quoc. When travelling to Norhthern (by motor), quite far distance so you have to fuel fully if you don’t want out of fuel halfway.

How to go to Phu Quoc island

There are 2 ways:

1. Plane.

You may go from Ha Noi or Sai Gon (Ho Chi Minh city ).

- From Sai Gon to Phu Quoc. There are 6 – 10 trips every day. Fares are from $50 to $70.

- From Ha Noi, Fares are from $150 to $250, depend on times.

Planes to Phu Quoc also have cheap fares, but you have to book few months.

If you booked hotels, let’s tell them your plane trip, they will pick you up when arriving.


2. Road and waterway.

This way is very complex.

- First, from Sai Gon, you will go to Rach Gia by car. There are many cars to Rach Gia, you may buy ticket in bus stations. If going in night, you will arrive at 5am. Then, you catch a taxi or motortaxi to go to dock.

Notes: You should remember license plate of your car, beacause in the trip, car will stop few times for resting, you have to remember the license plate to climb the right car.

Best taxis in Rach Gia:

Mai Linh: +848 3929 2929

Phuong Trang: +848 3833 3468

Superdong ship to Phu Quoc

- Shavanna ship. Add: 12 Tu Do street – Rach Gia city, near the dock. Phone: +84773.692.888. Fares: Adult: $15, child: $10.

>> All hotels in Sai Gon city at Agoda.com


Hotels and motels in Phu Quoc

1. Kim Thanh Nga hotel. Add: 7 region (khu ph? 7) – block 20 – Duong Dong town. Prices from $18 to $25. Ok room, good hotelier. $7 for taxi from airport to the hotel.

2. Hong Tuyet hotel. Add: 14 – Bach Dang street – Duong Dong. Near the Duong Dong night market, and dock of night squid fishing.

3. Sea Breeze hotel is very clear, spacious, balcony face the sea. Prices from $18 to $43. The hotel is located on Tran Hung Dao street. Phone +8477 399 4920

4. Hiep Thoai hotel on Tran Hung Dao street, in center of the the town. Phone: +8477.398.1060. I don’t know specific price, but it’s affordable, you may call to ask the price.

5. Huong Giang bungalow hotel. I really like this hotel. It includes 16 bungalows, located in bustling area of Phu Quoc and only 5 walk minutes from beach. Prices from $25 to $30. Let’s try this hotel, i think you will like it.

Huong Giang bungalow hotel
I like Huong Giang bungalow hotel

Some cheap motels in Phu Quoc

6. Thien Vy motel at 6 – Ly Thuong Kiet, near Phu Quoc ariport.

7. Oc Dao motel has very cheap price, just be $10. Phone +8498.2111.232. I don’t remember address.

Specialties and restaurants in the island

Phu Quoc is famous for seafoods. With waters features, dishes of Phu Quoc cuisine are related to seafoods. Such as:

Types of raw: herring, snail, barracuda and few other fishes. Coi Bien Mai, muscle between 2 clamshells. Ham Ninh spidercrab is famous tasty in Phu Quoc. Sea urchin, abalone,…Phu Quoc fish sauce is also very famous.

You may enjoy these dishes at following restaurants:

In Duong Dong town (western island)

Breakfast restaurants:

Crab pudding - specialties of Phu Quoc
Crab pudding

1. Le Giang restaurant is near the traffic circle of night market. This is familiar breakfast place of groups tourist.

2. Quoc Anh on 30/4 street, near Thang Long hotel. I don’t try yet but some my friends said it’s good.

3. Banh canh cha ca is a popular restaurant close to Thang Long hotel. If you want to watch the streets and enjoy taste of the local, let’s come here.

4. Breakfast buffet at Huong Bien hotel. You may call the hotel to book breakfast.

Other restaurants:

5. Vuon Tao (Vu?n táo ), i like this restaurant most. They have raw herring, which is pride of Phu Quoc cuisine. Other restaurant also have this dish, but here is best. You should stay this restaurant in daytime, because it’s quite distant center of the town so deserted in night.

Herring salad of Phu Quoc
Raw Herring – A famous specialty of Phu Quoc

6. Zen is a luxurious restaurant on 30/4 street. Cool campus and Professional staffs. This restaurant also serves breakfast.

7. Song Xanh restaurant has nice view, overlook Duong Dong river.

8. Trung Duong has popular prices.

9. Huong Bien restaurant is located on terrace of Huong Bien hotel, where has view overlook the sea, very impressive. This is ideal place for dinner.

10. Ngheu So Oc Hen and Nghe So restautants serve seafoods with popular prices.

11. Dinh Cau night market has many restaurants close together and prices are also popular. Let’s enjoy Phu Quoc cuisine style very Phu Quoc.

Coi Bien Mai - Phu Quoc Vietnam
Coi Bien Mai salt and chili grilled

12. Gia Tuong is only restaurant in Phu Quoc does not have seafoods, it serves specialties from Phu Quoc forest.

In southern

12. Sao beach club is new restaurant, nice view, well serves. You may rent hammock or chair to eat on the beach.

In Northern

13. Mai Phuong restaurant on Vung Bau (Vung B?u ) beach. Mai Phuong also has over 10 bungalow.

14. Bien Hai Quan on Ganh Dau.